Make feeding time easier and cleaner with reptile bowls, feeding dishes and tongs. Designed to stay stable in the enclosure, they help reduce spills and keep food accessible. Suitable for live insects, pellets, vegetables and more.
🦗 Food + feeders
Reptile diet errors are slow killers — metabolic bone disease (MBD) develops silently over months on the wrong calcium ratio. Most pet shops sell the wrong feeders for the wrong species. Here's the species-by-species feeding logic + the calcium dusting routine that prevents the most common preventable disease.
The cheapest staple feeder. Brown crickets noisier + smellier than black. Always gut-load 24h before feeding (high-quality cricket diet). Dust with calcium + D3 before tipping into enclosure. Replace uneaten crickets — they bite reptiles overnight.
Higher protein, less smell, longer-lived than crickets, easy to breed at home. Excellent for bearded dragons, leopard geckos, larger lizards. Won't infest your house (only breed in 30 °C+). Slightly more expensive but worth it for serious keepers.
Bigger than crickets, leaner, easier to dust. Good variety food. Sized small/medium/large to match reptile size. Don't bite reptiles overnight (vegetarian). More expensive than crickets, less expensive than roaches.
Mealworms: high fat, OK as treat (NOT staple — chitin shell hard to digest). Superworms: bigger, can bite, only for adult lizards. Silkworms: nutritionally excellent (high calcium ratio) but expensive. Variety beats single-feeder diet.
Bearded dragons: 70% veg as adults. Tortoises: 90%+ veg. Iguanas: 100% veg. Variety: dandelion, rocket, watercress, butternut squash, peppers. Avoid spinach + kale daily (oxalates bind calcium → MBD). Wash veg, chop fine.
Live insects in a tub + sprinkle calcium powder + shake (the "shake & bake"). Plain calcium for daily dusting. Calcium + D3 (e.g. Repashy Calcium Plus) for animals on weak/no UVB — 1–2× weekly. ALWAYS dust insects, never the reptile directly.
Crickets/roaches eaten straight from the box are nutritionally hollow. Feed insects high-quality vegetables + commercial gut-load (Repashy Bug Burger, Cricket Total) for 24h before offering to reptile. The reptile eats the insect AND the gut content.
Hatchlings: most species daily. Juveniles: every 1–2 days. Adults: every 2–4 days for lizards, weekly for snakes (mice/rats), daily greens for tortoises. Overfed adult bearded dragons → fatty liver disease. Underfed = poor growth + immune issues.
Insect width should NOT exceed the gap between the reptile's eyes. Rule prevents impaction + choking. Snakes: prey diameter no wider than the snake's widest point. Hatchlings get tiny prey; adults get larger. Wrong-size prey is a top cause of preventable death.
For omnivores/herbivores: rotate 6+ veg types weekly. Each veg has different vitamins. Single-veg diets cause specific deficiencies (e.g. lettuce-only = no calcium, vitamin A deficiency). For carnivores: mix insect species + occasional pinkie mice (large lizards).
Wild-caught insects (parasites + pesticides). Avocado (toxic to most reptiles). Rhubarb leaves (oxalic acid). Iceberg lettuce (no nutrients, can cause diarrhoea). Citrus fruit (most species). Fireflies (deadly to bearded dragons + chameleons).
Our food & feeders range goes live as we vet suppliers — we won't list anything we wouldn't use ourselves. In the meantime, our calculators, breed guides and AI vet tools below are free and don't need stock.
Every feeding for juveniles + breeding females. Adults: 4–5 dustings per week with plain calcium, 1–2 dustings per week with calcium + D3 (if UVB is good) or 3–4 per week with D3 (if UVB is poor or absent). Over-dusting D3 is also harmful — match to species + UVB setup.
No — wild-caught insects often carry parasites, pathogens, and pesticide residues. Always feed captive-bred from a reliable supplier. The cost saving isn't worth a parasite outbreak that costs €100+ in vet visits and treatments. Same goes for "free" wild plants for tortoises — wash thoroughly + only from organic sources.
Common with juveniles raised on insects. Slowly increase greens, decrease insects: cut insects to 5 days/week, then 3, then 2 over a few weeks. Mix bright veg (red/orange peppers, butternut squash) with greens — wavers in colour vision attract them. Adult bearded dragons MUST eat 70% veg or develop fatty liver disease.
Cricket Keeper containers (Lugarti, Exo Terra) — escape-proof + ventilated. Don't store more than 1–2 weeks at a time (live shipping cheaper than holding in volume). Discard dead crickets daily — ammonia + smell. Or breed dubia roaches at home — silent, no smell, no escape risk in cool homes.
