Two rings, two completely different walks
The metal ring on the chest is the one that stops pulling. Clip there and a dog that lunges forward gets turned gently back towards you, because the force goes sideways rather than into their shoulders. Clip to the ring on the back instead and you get an ordinary, relaxed walk. Most owners use the front ring while training and drift to the back ring as the dog settles.
Built for a dog that pulls
- Two quick-release buckles — the harness goes on over the head and clips at both sides, so you are not asking an excited dog to stand still while you thread legs through holes.
- Four adjustment points, two at the neck and two at the chest, so the fit is squared off properly rather than approximately.
- Grab handle across the back for the moments that need one — a kerb, a vet door, another dog appearing round a corner.
- Reinforced stitching at the load points, where cheap harnesses give way first.
- 5ft leash included, so it is a complete setup rather than a part of one.
Fitting it properly
Measure your dog’s girth — right around the chest, just behind the front legs — and fit so you can slide two fingers flat under any strap. Tighter than that restricts the shoulder; looser than that is how dogs back out of harnesses, which is the actual safety risk. Re-check the fit after a week: straps settle, and a growing dog changes shape fast.
Good to know
Sized for medium to large dogs and supplied in blue. A front-clip harness redirects pulling — it manages the behaviour, it does not train it away on its own. And no harness should be left on an unsupervised dog, particularly a crated one, where a strap can catch.
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